Aluminum Mosquito Screens in Alicante: A Practical Guide

Before ordering it, measure the visible opening (rubber to rubber) for width and height three times: top, center, and bottom. Go with the smallest measurement and allow a 2–3 mm tolerance so it fits without forcing. Check that the frame is square; if the level shows it's off, order adjustable corner brackets. For sliders, measure the track and the clear height between guides; for rollers, make sure the headbox fits; for hinged ones, check the swing direction and handle clearance. In a penthouse in Santa Pola I fitted a roller with a 45 mm headbox because the subframe couldn't take anything larger; in Torrevieja I found a misaligned guide and adjusted with shims. If you rent, there is no-drill installation with clips or VHB tape that leaves no marks. Remember: take note of the clear opening, not the outer frame. And a key point: if you get the measurement wrong, the insect screen won't close properly and bugs will come in through the sides. Before finishing, check that the mesh is taut and that the magnet or brush seals close off the entire perimeter.

Do you want to ventilate at night without getting eaten by mosquitoes? In Alicante, the typical setup is sliding windows, so the usual choice is a sliding screen that runs along its track and doesn't take up space. If your window is a casement (very common in Elche), magnetic hinged ones suit you best. For garden doors in San Juan or villas with constant foot traffic, pleated screens stand up better to heavy use and you won't trip. In windy penthouses in Benidorm, roll-up screens with a brake prevent the spring from slamming the headbox. And if you suffer from allergies, fit anti-pollen mesh and you'll notice fewer sneezes in spring. With pets, swap the mesh for pet mesh (PET or steel) and forget about scratches. The aluminum frame is light and resistant to the coastal climate, so it doesn't warp with the sun or sea breeze. Straightforward tip: choose the type according to your window and how you use it every day; a living-room slider isn't the same as a door you open 30 times. Real example: I installed a double sliding screen in an apartment in central Alicante because only half of the panel opens; in a country house in Mutxamel, a sturdy hinged one is better so you can slam it shut without worry.

On the Alicante coast the enemy is salt spray. Each month, wipe the aluminum frame and the mesh with soapy water and a cloth; rinse and dry in the shade. No Karcher: it opens up the weave and then it vibrates in the wind. Lubricate the tracks with silicone for tracks in spray form; avoid oils that trap dust. Check the perimeter brushes, the screen tension, and the magnets. If you notice play, replace the pile weatherstrip; it's inexpensive and restores the seal. For replacements, fiberglass mesh is cheap and withstands the sun; if you have a cat, switch to PET mesh. If you live right by the sea, ask for powder-coated profiles with Seaside certification and A2 stainless fasteners; that way the headrail and brackets won't pit. Real case: in El Campello a sliding screen was jamming due to a crust of salt in the track; after a 10-minute clean it slid again. In Mutxamel, a puppy destroyed the screen fabric in a month; we switched to metal mesh and that solved it. 15 minutes of maintenance a month will prevent jams, looseness, and noise all summer.