Aluminum Insect Screens in Granada: Buying Guide and Maintenance Tips

In Granada, mosquito screens aren’t a luxury: between nights with the window open because of the heat and weather changes that make you want to air the place out, bugs end up finding a way in. The usual question is: what should I get—roller, sliding, or fixed? If you have a casement window (the kind that opens inward), the roller option is usually the most convenient: you pull it down when you need it and that’s it. In apartments with sliding glass doors or windows, the standard choice is a sliding screen, because it moves with the sash and doesn’t get in the way. And the fixed one? Useful on small windows where you almost never need access, like in a bathroom or a laundry room.

The practical thing here is to look at your day-to-day: whether you go out to hang laundry, if you have cats that lean on the mesh, if you like sleeping with the window slightly open. A real example: in a living room facing a dusty street, standard mesh might fall short; in that case it’s worth going for a high-resistance mesh so it can handle more tension and handling without fraying. And watch the color: grey mesh usually “disappears” from view more than black or silver.

The aluminum mosquito screen holds up well, but maintenance makes all the difference. Think about it: if pollen gets in during spring and more dust in summer, the mesh ends up acting like a filter. The result? A roller screen that goes up in jerks, or a sliding one that scrapes. An easy routine: every 2–3 weeks, run a vacuum with a soft brush over the mesh (both sides if you can), then wipe with a microfiber cloth using lukewarm water and a drop of neutral soap. No ammonia or scouring pads: you’ll ruin the finish and the mesh will weaken. That silly 5‑minute habit prevents grime from building up in the tracks, which is where the drama starts.

On sliding screens, check the rollers: if you notice the panel feels “heavy,” it’s usually dirt or a slight misalignment. Clean the track with a brush and, if needed, a tiny bit of silicone spray (very little). On roller screens, look at the spring: if it doesn’t retract well, it’s often because the fabric is dirty or because there’s grit in the guide. And a tip: if you have kids, teach them to raise and lower it gently; yanking it is the quickest way to knock it off-center.

I’ll tell you the three problems I see most: frayed mesh, a screen that doesn’t close properly, and guides that make noise. If the mesh tears in a corner, there’s no need to replace the whole system: many times you can swap out just the mesh. On a sliding one, it usually comes with a rubber weatherstrip; on a roller one, with a profile and a cord. It’s a “Saturday afternoon” fix if you’re even a little handy. Now, if the tear is right where it always rubs, the repair won’t last long: you’ll need to check the alignment or replace the damaged guide.

Doesn’t it close and you’re left with a gap on the side? It’s usually misalignment from wear or from a bump while cleaning windows. Adjusting the wheel screws (on sliding screens) usually brings the closure back. If it’s a roller screen and there’s a small gap, check that the mesh is feeding straight into the guides; sometimes it’s being “pinched” by dirt. And metallic noise when sliding isn’t “normal”: it’s almost always grit in the track. Clean, dry, and try again. If it still continues, then yes: better to have someone take a look, because forcing it ends up bending profiles and then it gets more expensive.